Sarah Copeland’s Chocolate Chip Cookie for Modern Times

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, sugars, baking soda and salt. In a separate small bowl, vigorously whisk together the melted butter, eggs and vanilla. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients. Mix in the chocolate, reserving just a bit for the tops, making sure the pieces are evenly distributed throughout the dough.

3. Scoop the dough by heaping tablespoons and roll into balls between your hands. Arrange on the prepared baking sheets with plenty of space between them. Press the reserved chocolate pieces into the tops of the cookies. Bake, one sheet at a time, until crispy on the outside edges and soft and just a touch underbaked-looking inside (they will continue to bake on the pan as they cool), 10 to 12 minutes.

4. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with salt—or skip it if that’s not your thing. Let cool on the pan for at least 2 minutes (they may fall apart if you pull them off when they’re too hot) before transferring to plates to serve warm, when they’re best.

Note: “This is my big_batch recipe,” Copeland says. “Because the dough only improves with time, it’s worth hanging on to some. We bake a dozen right away, then save the rest for sheet-by-sheet baking as needed. If you bake two sheets at a time, rotate the trays and switch them from the top rack to the bottom rack halfway through baking for even browning.”